Azumi Setoda
Onomichi, Japan
Setoda
Vibe
A quiet courtyard of pine and cherry trees anchors this restored 1876 merchant estate, pairing minimalist sukiya woodwork with calm island hospitality.
“Restored sukiya household”
Shiro Miura’s sukiya-zukuri styling pairs original merchant-estate proportions with washi paper, granite, and bespoke cypress furnishings.
A preserved 1876 estate of the prominent Horiuchi merchant family, retaining original cedar woodwork and structural beams.
Setouchi cuisine served on antique Horiuchi family porcelain alongside lemon grove harvesting on Ikuchijima island.
On Ikuchijima along the Shimanami Kaido, in a sleepy port town surrounded by lemon groves.
“The result is a boutique ryokan with many perfectly executed elements — minimalist interiors, exposed beams, clean lines, low-rise furniture, pale wood and washi paper.”
Rooms
Rooms feature fragrant hinoki wood soaking tubs, sliding washi screens, and private stone gardens or breezy second-floor balconies.
“Inside is a serene mesh of clean lines and traditional materials (washi paper, plasterwork, wood) with exposed timber beams and an open-plan restaurant.”
Wellness
Across the narrow stone street, yubune offers hot sento soaking pools lined with marine mosaics, a sauna, and cold plunge baths.
Backstory
Built in 1876 for the prominent Horiuchi salt merchants, the estate was reimagined by Aman founder Adrian Zecha as Azumi's debut ryokan.
Eat & drink
Seasonal Setouchi tasting menus highlighting island seafood and local citrus arrive on antique porcelain passed down through generations of the Horiuchi family.
The neighborhood
Set along the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, the surrounding port town offers sunlit lemon orchards, quiet temples, and peaceful Inland Sea ferry crossings.
The app
This is one hotel. The app has every one we rate, in your pocket, for the whole trip.
Our shorthand
What makes a hotel special, how well they pull it off, and what it feels like outside the door.
How well they pull it off
Extremely rare. Sets the global standard.
Brilliant execution. And we’re picky.
They did this well. You’ll notice.
A defining trait. Makes the hotel what it is.
The eight vibes
Architecture and interiors lead. There’s a creative vision at work.
The guest is conspicuously well cared for. Requests met before they’re made.
Rooted in place. Local character runs through the whole stay.
Energy and scene. Where the city goes out, whether or not it’s sleeping here.
A building with history. The story of the place is part of the stay.
Built around feeling better. Rest, sweat, soak, spa.
A hotel the city grew up with. Same rituals, same regulars.
A world of its own. No reason to leave the property.
Scene — what’s outside the door
Where things happen: restaurants, shops, people.
Well-located: walkable to some things, a short ride to more.
Away from the crowds. Getting around takes intention.
A place apart: the property is the destination.